Cooinbil Hut, Kosciuszko National Park
Trip dates: 15-18 Apr 2026
Participants:
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David and Margo Wade Isuzu D-Max with Ultimate camper
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David Brown Suzuki Jimny
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Simon Nickson 76 Series Landcruiser wagon
Wednesday
Thursday
Thursday can be best described as a slack day around the camp. Lots of chatting for the two Davids while Margo disappeared with her camera. The Cooinbil Hut camp magpie was a young, friendly thing with no fear of humans and would like to accompanying whoever was sitting or pottering around the campsite. We did the right thing and didn’t feed the native wildlife but nonetheless it still liked to keep us company. The fire went on early so we had plenty of coals for Margo to prepare and cook a lamb roast in the camp oven. Simon timed his arrival nicely, arriving just in time to pitch his tent in the daylight and just before Margo was about to serve the roast, so the four of us enjoyed a dinner together sitting around the fire.
Friday
A chilly morning at first but the sun was out and it was a pleasant day weather wise. After an unrushed breakfast we headed north up Long Plain Road in our three-vehicle convoy, with Simon in the lead. First stop the Coolamine Homestead site, with its houses and outbuildings, including cheese hut and kitchen. It is a panoramic vista with views across the valley, the buildings dating back to the late 1800s kept in good condition on neat grounds. The Campbell House has been wall-papered with newspaper over the decades, much of this intact and preserved behind clear perspex. This provided fascinating reading of news, comics and sport dating back to the 1930s.
On the way to Blue Waterholes, we had a quick look at Magpie Flat campground, which was well patronised given its proximity to the waterholes and gorges. Blue Waterholes Track ends at the day-use site. It’s a popular spot and serves as the carpark for Blue Waterholes, Clarkes Gorge, and Cooleman Caves, all these within a few kms walk. The Wades and Simon ventured for a walk to the start of Clarkes Gorge and return via Blue Waterholes, stopping for a chat with all and sundry, including a group of water colour art students.
We elected to go to Currango Homestead for a late lunch and arrived there after an hour’s drive south down Long Plain Rd and out along Port Phillip Track. After confirming that the homestead buildings and associated mobs of kangaroos were unchanged since we visited a few years earlier, we headed back the same way, with a look-see down Dam Track that took us to the Tantangara Reservoir shoreline. Here we espied a mob of brumbies and Margo took off on foot in hot pursuit, telephoto lens in hand (then scurried back again when the stallion started to look interested). From our position we had a clear view of the Snowy 2 works near the dam and what appeared to be a most enormous pile of blue metal from quarry or tunnel diggings.
We headed back to camp, and as the sun got lower it started getting cold. David W suggested we cook dinner in the hut; we agreed instantly and few minutes later we were settled in the hut with firewood, gas stove, comfy chairs, red wine, beer, munchies etc, just in time for 5 o’clock. Margo elected to cook in the camper and deliver to the hut, but everything came together for an enjoyable evening in the hut around the fire.
Saturday
Following on from the perishing evening the night before, the morning was no warmer. The Wades’ thermometer showed -9.7C in the early morning light. Canvas sheeted in ice and taps frozen solid. Luckily the camper has a decent heater so it didn’t take long for the Wades to warm up. Both David Brown and Simon though, who were in tents, were in the Hut with the fire going.
Our intention had been for David Brown and the Wades to return home via Broken Cart Trail and Boundary Road with Simon staying on another night, but a flat tyre on David’s Suzuki Jimny saw the end of that plan. With teamwork, the tyre was changed quickly, but without a spare, the Wades and David B elected to skip Broken Cart Track and Brindabella Rd. So it was back home for the two vehicles along the bitumen through Cooma, following another early lunch in Adaminaby.
Simon was up for another night in the bush and headed north up Long Plain Rd and Broken Cart Track to camp at Dubbo Flat, a beautiful grassy spot by the creek. Scenic by day—frost hollow by night! (A lesson in topography and weather for those not experienced higher country campers.)
Sunday
Sunday morning, the thick frost melted quickly once the sun was out. Broken Cart track is a lovely drive, with some steeper slower sections, and the virgin woodland. Then onto Barnetts Rd followed by a right turn onto Brindabella Rd and home via Piccadilly Circus. A flat tyre for Simon on this stretch didn’t detract from what was a great trip.
Acknowledgment: Many thanks to the Wades for organising the trip (and for the lamb roast).
Author: Simon Nickson
